One More Notch
Originally published: MetaPostModernKnitting.com, Fall/Winter 2008/2009
by Robin Dodge
Difficulty: Intermediate
This sweater involves basic sweater construction, with the addition of picking up stitches around the collar, working in sections to form the notches, and working buttonholes.
When I saw this design by Roberto Cavalli from the Fall 2008 runway shows, I just knew I had to make something similar. I love wrap sweaters since they seem to go with everything. His version with the notches in the collar just seems to take the typical wrap sweater and, if you will forgive the pun, kick it up a notch. I did away with the angled hemline and added long sleeves, to give it the practicality I need from a sweater that I’ll wear all the time. I used buttons to secure the wrap on the inside and the outside, to give it a little fun accent. The notches are the whole point of this sweater, so I definitely kept those, but it could easily be made into a more standard and conservative sweater by omitting the notches.
[Photographer: Caroline Bautista / Model: Robin Dodge]
SIZE
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 31 [35, 38.5, 42.5, 47, 50.5, 54.5] inches
Length: 21.5 [22.75, 23.75, 24.25, 25.5, 26, 27] inches
This sweater should just a little bit of ease. It shouldn’t be at all baggy, but about .5 to 1 inch of positive ease would be just right.
MATERIALS
[MC] Cascade Baby Alpaca Chunky [100% baby alpaca; 108 yd per 100g skein]; color 568; 7[8,10, 11, 12, 13, 14] skeins.
Cascade Baby Alpaca Chunky is a wonderfully soft yarn. It’s not the cheapest yarn in the world, but it’s worth it to splurge for a project like this. It drapes beautifully, and the alpaca will keep you cozy warm when it gets chilly outside. This sweater would also work well with a high-quality wool that has a nice drape.
1 set US Size 10/6mm straight needles
1 US Size 9/4.5mm 29-inch circular needle
1 US Size J-10/6mm crochet hook
stitch marker
2 buttons (to be hidden inside the garment): ½ to 7/8 inch.
2 buttons (for the outside): 7/8 to 1 inch.
GAUGE
14.5 sts X 18 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch with larger needles
PATTERN NOTES
A turning hem is created on Back, Sleeves, and Left and Right Front. All pattern measurements are taken from the turning ridge of the hem.
M1B: from the back, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into front of loop.
M1F: From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into back of loop.
PATTERN
Back
Hem
With larger ndls, CO 56 [63, 70, 77, 85, 92, 99] sts. Row 1 (RS): knit. Row 2: purl. Row 3: knit. Row 4: knit. Row 5: knit. (turning ridge complete)
Shape Body
Next row (WS): purl. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 3.5 [4, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Dec row (RS): k2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 4.5 [5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Rep Dec row once more. (52 [69, 56, 73, 81, 88, 95] sts rem). Work even in stockinette until piece meas 7.5 [8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Inc row (RS): k2, M1B, knit to last 2 sts, M1F, k2. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 8.5 [9, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10, 10.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 14.5 [15, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16, 16.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. (56 [63, 70, 77, 85, 92, 99] sts).
Shape Armholes
At beg of next 2 rows, BO 3 [4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9] sts and work to end. Dec row (RS): k1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Purl 1 row. Rep these 2 rows 2 [2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] more times. (44 [49, 54, 59, 63, 68, 73] sts rem). Work even until armhole meas 7 [7.75, 8.25, 8.75, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches, end after WS row. BO all sts.
Right Front
Work as for back until work meas .75 inch from the hem ridge, end after WS row. Buttonhole row (RS): k2, BO 2 sts, knit to end. Next row (WS): p52 [59, 66, 73, 81, 88, 95], CO 2 sts, p2. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 2.75 [2.75, 3, 3, 3.25, 3.25, 3.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Rep Buttonhole rows. Work even until piece meas 3.5 [3.75, 4, 4, 4.25, 4.25, 4.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row.
Shape Neck
Row 1 (RS): k1, sssk, knit to end. Row 2: purl. Row 3: k1, ssk, knit to end. Row 4: purl. Rep Rows 1-4, 12 [13, 15, 17, 19, 20, 22] more times; then Rows 3-4, 2 [4, 3, 2, 2, 4, 3] times. AT THE SAME TIME, when piece meas 3.5 [4, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.5] inches from turning ridge end after WS row, Shape Body as foll: Dec row (RS): knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 4.5 [5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Rep Dec row once more. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 7.5 [8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Inc row (RS): knit to last 2 sts, M1F, k2. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 8.5 [9, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10, 10.5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 14.5 [15, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16, 16.5] inches from turning ridge, end after RS row.
Shape Armholes
Next row (WS): Cont to shape neck as indicated above, BO 3 [4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9] sts and purl to end. Dec row (RS): knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Purl 1 row. Rep these 2 rows 2 [2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] more times. Work even until armhole meas 7 [7.75, 8.25, 8.75, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches, end after WS row. (9 [10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] sts rem). BO all sts.
Left Front
Work as for Right Front, omitting buttonholes and rev all shapings.
Sleeves
CO 32 [34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44] sts. Work as for Back until piece meas 2” from turning ridge, end after WS row. Inc row (RS): k1, M1B, work to last st, M1F, k1. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 5 [4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 8 [6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 5] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 11 [8, 8, 8, 8, 7, 6] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 14 [10, 10, 10, 10, 8, 7] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Sizes Small, Medium, Large, 1X, 2X, and 3X only: Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas - [14, 12, 11, 11, 9, 8] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Sizes Medium, Large, 1X, 2X, and 3X only: Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas - [-, 14, 12, 12, 10, 9] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Sizes Large, 1X, 2X, and 3X only: Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas - [-, -, 14, 13, 11, 10] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Sizes 1X, 2X, and 3X only: Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas - [-, -, -, 14, 12, 11] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Sizes 2X, and 3X only: Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas - [-, -, -, -, 13, 12] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas - [-, -, -, -, 14, 13] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. Size 3X only: Rep Inc row. Work even in stockinette until piece meas - [-, -, -, -, -, 14] inches from turning ridge, end after WS row. All Sizes: (40 [44, 48, 52, 56, 62, 66] sts). Work even in patt until piece meas 17.25 inches from turning ridge, end after WS row.
Shape Cap
At beg of next 2 rows, BO 3 [4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9] sts. Dec row (RS): k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. Purl 1 row. Rep these 2 rows 2 [2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] times. Knit 1 row. Work 3 [5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7] rows even. Dec row (RS): k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. Rep these 4 [6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8] rows once. Purl 1 row. Rep Dec row. Rep these 2 rows 2 [2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] more times. Purl 1 row. At beg of next 4 rows, BO 2 sts and work to end. BO rem 10 [12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18] sts rem.
FINISHING
Sew shoulder seams.
Collar
With smaller ndls and RS facing, beg at Right Front Neck edge (at beg of dec) pick up and knit 176 [190, 200, 210, 220, 228, 240] sts around neckline. Next row (WS): Working back and forth in rows, *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Dec row (RS): sssk (loosely), work in patt as set to last 3 sts, k3tog (loosely). Dec row (WS): p3tog (loosely), work in patt to last 3 sts, p3tog tbl (loosely). Repeat those two rows three more times.
Right Neck Notch
Row 1 (RS): sssk (loosely), work 45 [49, 52, 54, 57, 59, 62] sts in patt, pm, turn. Row 2: sl 1 pwise, work in patt to last 3 sts, p3tog tbl. Row 3: sssk (loosely), work in patt to m, turn. Row 4: sl 1 pwise, work in patt to last 3 sts, p3tog tbl. Rep Rows 3 and 4, once more. Next row (RS): sssk (loosely), BO all sts to m. Break yarn, leaving rem sts on ndl.
Back Neck
With RS facing, attach yarn at notch. Row 1 (RS): work 40 [43, 45, 47, 50, 52, 54] sts in patt, turn. Row 2: sl 1 pwise, work 39 [42, 44, 46, 49, 51, 53] sts in patt. Rep these 2 rows, 3 more times. BO 40 [43, 45, 47, 50, 52, 54] sts.
Left Neck Notch
With RS facing, attach yarn at notch. Row 1 (RS): Work in patt to last 3 sts, end k3tog (loosely). Row 2: p3tog (loosely), work in patt to notch. Row 3: sl 1, work in patt to last 3 sts, end k3tog (loosely). Row 4: p3tog (loosely), work in patt to notch. Rep Rows 3 and 4, once more. BO all sts in patt, working k3tog loosely over last 3 sts. Fasten off.
Sew sleeves into armholes and sew sleeve and side seams. Turn hem at turning ridge and sew to inside of garment.
On inside of garment, at Right Front Side seam, sew smaller buttons at 2 inches and 3.5 [3.5, 3.75, 3.75, 4, 4, 4.25] inches above the hem. On Left Front edge, work one row of single crochet between hem and beginning of collar, working two crochet buttonhole loops to accommodate the smaller buttons. On outside of garment, at Left Front Side seam, sew larger buttons opposite buttonholes. Finish buttonholes if desired.
Depending on how tight your bound off stitches are along the shoulders and neckline, you may want to work a line of single crochet along the inside for stability. Weave in all ends.
The test garment required very careful wet blocking. It is highly recommended that you measure your garment before blocking. Measure the finished length, width at the bottom edge and bust, and length and width of the sleeves. Block carefully according to these measurements to prevent distorting the garment. Press the hems flat with your hands and leave the garment to dry. Alpaca is not very elastic when wet, but it does regain some elasticity as it dries. You might have to let the garment dry a bit, and shape it to the measurements once more before it dries.
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