Originally published: MetaPostModernKnitting.com, Fall/Winter 2008/2009
by Robin Dodge
The construction of this vest is fairly simple, but itís the belt that makes it intermediate. Advanced beginners might also be able to tackle this pattern, if you are familiar with basic sweater construction, increasing and decreasing, and if you feel that you understand the belt instructions.
This vest is inspired by a very similar vest in the Fall 2008 collection of Lutz. In fact, I didnít change too much of the design because I love the original so much. The belt is the focal point of this vest, and itís easier than it looks. The hardest part might be finding a belt buckle thatís large enough, but try the more sophisticated fabric stores in your area, look in thrift stores or discount stores for inexpensive belts that could be cut up just for their buckles, or of course, try searching online. If you find a buckle with the right shape but the wrong color, you can wrap yarn around it, as in the original. The name of this pattern is a reference to the use of ďselfĒ in sewing terminology, which essentially refers to the use of the main garment fabric for other parts of a garment, such as the facings, belt, ties, etc.
Photographer: Caroline Bautista / Model: Robin Dodge]
The vest should have very limited ease in the back. The rib/belt portion should fit snug around the upper part of the hips. The front is supposed to sit fairly wide open, except for the neck area, where it falls more closely around the neck than a standard vest would.
[MC] Cascade Venezia Worsted [70% merino wool/30% silk; 219 yd per 100g skein]; color 131; 3 [3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6] skeins.
Venezia Worsted has nice stitch definition, holds its shape well, and has a great subtle sheen that makes it perfect for this project. The wool gives it elasticity, which is important for the belt portion, and the silk gives it that little something extra that makes it interesting.
1 set US Size 7/4.5mm straight needles
1 extra-large belt buckle (It should fit the band of ribbing, which measures 3.25 inches, but since knits stretch and smoosh, a 3 inch or even slightly smaller buckle will work best.)
1 button, 5/8 Ė 7/8 inch
20 sts X 25 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
CO 75 [85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135] sts. Row 1 (WS): *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, end k1. Row 2: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, end p1. Rep rows 1 and 2, 10 more times, and then row 1 once more. Next row (RS): Knit. Work even in stockinette until piece meas 12.75 [13.25, 13.75, 13.75, 14.25, 14.25, 14.75] inches, end after WS row. Next row (RS): P5, knit to last 5 sts, P5. Next row (WS): K5, purl to last 5 sts, K5. Maint rev stockinette patt on first and last 5 sts, work even in patt as est until piece meas 20 [21, 22, 22.5, 23.5, 24, 25] inches from CO, end after WS row. BO all sts in patt.
CO 70 [79, 88, 98, 107, 116, 125] sts.
Row 1 (WS): Work 1 x 1 rib as for Back to last 3 sts, P3. Row 2 (Inc row): k3, M1B, work in 1 x 1 rib to end. Repeat Rows 1 and 2, incorporating new sts into rib patt as they become available, five more times. [76 (85, 94, 104, 113, 122, 131) sts]. Buttonhole row (RS): Work 1 x 1 rib to last 4 sts, p2tog, yo, p2. Next row (Dec row): k2, ssk, work in 1 x 1 rib to end. Next row (RS): Work in 1 x 1 rib to last 3 sts, p3. Rep these 2 rows, 4 more times. Next row (RS): BO 34 [38, 42, 47, 51, 56, 60] sts, working one more ssk in patt. Switch to stockinette and k rest of row (36 [41, 46, 51, 56, 60, 65] sts rem).
Row 1 (WS) and all other WS rows: purl to last 5 sts, end k5. Row 2 (RS): p5, k1, ssk, knit to end. Row 4: p5, k2, ssk, knit to end. Row 6: p5, k3, ssk, knit to end. Row 8: p5, k4, ssk, knit to end. Row 10: p5, k5, ssk, knit to end (31 [36, 41, 46, 51, 55, 60] sts rem).
Row 1(WS): purl to last 5 sts, end K5. Row 2: p5, knit to end. Maint rev stockinette patt at neck edge, work even in patt as est until piece meas 12.75 [13.25, 13.75, 13.75, 14.25, 14.25, 14.75] inches from CO, end after WS row. Next row (RS): p5, knit to last 5 sts, end p5. Next row (WS): k5, purl to last 5 sts, end k5. Maint rev stockinette patt on first and last 5 sts, work even in patt until piece meas 20 [21, 22, 22.5, 23.5, 24, 25] inches from CO, end after WS row. BO all st in patt.
CO 43 [48, 54, 58, 63, 67, 72] sts. Work 1x1 rib as for Back until piece meas 3.5 inches from CO, end after RS row. Next row (WS): BO 7 sts in patt, purl to end. (36 [41, 47, 51, 56, 60, 65] sts rem). Shape Bodice and work Body as for Right Front, rev all shaping.
CO 3 st. Row 1 (RS): K1, P1, K1. Row 2: P1, K1, P1. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece meas 3.5 inches from CO. BO all sts.
Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams, beg at hem edge and working to rev stockinette edge. Attach belt buckle by folding left front tab over middle of buckle and seaming in place. Seam belt loop to ribbing about halfway between the buckle and the left side seam. Sew on button approx 1 inch from left edge, opposite buttonhole. Weave in all ends. Block, but donít completely press out the rolled edges.