Speckles
Originally published: MetaPostModernKnitting.com, Spring/Summer 2008
by Robin Dodge
Difficulty: Intermediate. This pattern involves typical sweater construction such as shaping and seaming. It also calls for working a stitch pattern while following shaping instructions, and picking up stitches along edges.
Speckles was inspired by a sweater in the Spring/Summer 2008 collection of Milly. The original has a very wide neck, and a pattern that looks as though it’s similar to the reverse side of fair-isle with its stranded yarns (upon closer inspection, it actually is some kind of fairly complicated stitch pattern, and not stranding at all). The neckline of my version is wide, to keep some of the original drama, but it’s not quite as revealing, which will make it more accessible and wearable for more knitters. I experimented a lot with different stitch patterns for the body of the sweater. My attempts at stranding were a disappointment. It looked messy and I thought it wouldn’t wear well. What I like most about the original is the way the stitch pattern makes the body of the sweater look so different than the solid black edges. I used the Speckle Rib stitch (The Harmony Guides 450 Knitting Stitches v.2, 1998, p. 34) to achieve that same affect with my version. I love the way it gives the body a different tone and texture in contrast to the edging, but it also makes a very neat and comfortable fabric.
Photo credit [model: Caroline Bautista/photographer: Anna Wilcoxon]
SIZE
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 33 [37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 57]”
Length: 18[19.25, 20.25, 21.25, 22, 22.75, 23] inches
MATERIALS
[MC] Cascade Key Largo [65% cotton/35% alpaca; 110 yd per 50g skein]; color: 1019; 5 [6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] skeins.
Cascade Key Largo is sort of an average worsted-weight cotton yarn with a kick. The cotton and alpaca make an interesting blend. It feels like a cotton yarn, except it’s softer with a better drape.
[CC] Jaeger Trinity [40% silk/35% cotton/25% polyamide; 217 yd per 50g skein]; color: 438; 2 [2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] skeins.
Jaeger Trinity is much thinner than Cascade Key Largo. It works great for the speckles without adding too much bulk or weight. It has a nubby texture, and it is not super-soft.
1 set US Size 4/3.5mm straight needles
1 set US Size 5/3.75mm straight needles
1 US Size 4/3.5mm 29-inch circular needle
stitch holder, 2 split stitch markers, 1 standard stitch marker
GAUGE
22 sts X 40 rows = 4" in Speckle Rib stitch
Speckle Rib Stitch
Row 1 (RS): With MC, knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: With CC, K1, *sl 1 pwise, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 4: K1, *sl 1 pwise wyif, K1; rep from * to end.
Row 5: With MC, knit.
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: With CC, K2, *sl 1 pwise, k1; rep from * to last st, end k1.
Row 8: K2, *sl 1 pwise wyif, k1; rep from * to last st, end k1.
Rep Rows 1-8 for patt st.
PATTERN
Front
With smaller ndls and MC, CO 91 [101, 113, 123, 135, 145, 157] sts. Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1; rep from * to last st, end K1. Row 2: P1, *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece meas 3” from CO, ending on a WS row. Next row (RS): Change to larger ndls and work Row 1 of Speckle Rib Stitch. Work in patt st until piece meas 11.5 [12, 12.5, 13, 13, 13.5, 13.5]”, ending on Row 4 or 8 of patt st.
Shape Left Armhole and Neck
At beg of next row (RS), BO 6 [7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, work 23 [26, 28, 30, 34, 37, 41] sts in patt, join new ball of yarn and BO 33 [35, 41, 45, 47, 49, 51] sts, and place rem 29 [33, 36, 39, 44, 48, 53] sts on holder. Set Right Neck aside. Left Neck Only: Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS): SSK, work to end in patt. Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS): SSK, work to last 2 [2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts in patt, k2tog [k2tog, k2tog, k2tog, k3tog, k3tog, k3tog]. Work 3 rows even in patt.
Shape Left Neck
Dec row (RS): Work to last 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts in patt, k2tog [k2tog, k2tog, k2tog, k3tog, k3tog, k3tog]. Work 3 rows even in patt. Rep these 4 rows 11 (14, 16, 18, 3, 4, 6) more times. Sizes 1x, 2x, and 3x only: Next row (RS): Work in patt to last 2 sts, K2tog. Work 3 rows even. Rep these 4 rows –[-, -, -, 13, 14, 14] more times. All Sizes: [8 sts rem]. Work even in patt until armhole meas 6.5 [7.25, 7.75, 8.5, 9, 9.25, 9.5]”, ending on a WS row. BO all sts.
Shape Right Armhole and Neck
With RS facing, sl sts from stitch holder to larger ndls. Work 1 RS row cont in patt. At beg of next row (WS), BO 6 [7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, work 23 [26, 28, 30, 34, 37, 41] sts in patt. Work 1 RS row. Next row (WS): P2tog, work to end in patt. Work 1 RS row. Next row (WS): P2tog, work to last 2 [2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts in patt, p2tog tbl [p2tog tbl, p2tog tbl, p2tog tbl, p3tog tbl, p3tog tbl, p3tog tbl]. Work 3 rows even in patt.
Shape Right Neck
Work as for Left Neck, rev all shaping.
Back
Work as for Front until piece meas 11.5 [12, 12.5, 13, 13, 13.5, 13.5]” from CO, ending on a WS row. At beg of next 2 rows, armholes, BO 6 [7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts and work to end in patt. At beg of next 4 rows, dec 1 st and work to end in patt. [75 [83, 93, 101, 111, 119, 129] sts rem]. Work even in patt st until armholes meas 6 [6.75, 7.25, 7.75, 8.5, 8.75, 9] inches, ending on a WS row.
Shape Back Neck
Next row (RS): Work 10 sts in patt, join new ball of yarn and BO 55 [63, 73, 81, 91, 99, 109] sts for Back Neck, work rem 10 sts in patt. Left Shoulder Only: Work 1 WS row. Next row (RS): BO 2 sts and work to end in patt. Work even in patt until armhole meas 6.5 [7.25, 7.75, 8.5, 9, 9.25, 9.5]”, ending on a WS row. BO all sts. Right Shoulder: Work as for Left Shoulder, rev all shaping.
Sleeves
Make two.
With smaller ndls and MC, CO 65 [73, 77, 83, 89, 95, 99] sts. Work 1x1 rib, as for Back, until piece meas 3” from CO, ending on a WS row. Change to larger ndls and work Row 1 of Speckle Rib patt. Cont in patt until Sleeve meas 5.75 [6, 6.5, 6.75, 6.75, 6.75, 6.75]” from CO ending on a Row 2 or 6 of patt st.
Shape Cap
At beg of next 2 rows, BO 6 [7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts and work to end in patt.
Dec row (RS): SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. Work 3 rows even. Rep these 4 rows 4 [6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9] more times. Work even until Sleeve meas 8.75 [9.75, 10.75, 11.5, 12.25, 12.5, 12.75]” from CO, ending on Row 4 or 8 of patt st. At beg of next 2 rows, BO 2 sts and work to end. Work 2 rows even. At beg of foll 2 rows, BO 2 sts and work to end. BO rem 35 [37, 37, 41, 43, 45, 47] sts.
FINISHING
Join shoulders. Set sleeves into bodice. Sew underarm and side seams.
Collar
With circular ndl and MC, beg at Left Shoulder, pick up and knit 36 [40, 43, 46, 50, 52, 53] sts to Front Center Neck, pm in fabric, knit across 33 [35, 41, 45, 47, 49, 51] Front Center Neck sts, pm in fabric, pick up and knit 36 [40, 43, 46, 50, 52, 53] sts to Right Shoulder, and pick up and knit 63 [71, 81, 89, 98, 106, 116] sts across Back Neck. PM and join. [168 [186, 208, 226, 244, 258, 272] sts]. Rnd 1: *K1, P1; rep from * to first m, sl 2 sts kwise tog, K1, psso, *K1, P1; rep from * to second m, sl 2 sts kwise tog, K1, psso, *K1, P1; rep from * to end. [4 sts dec’d] Rnd 2: Work 1 rnd even in patt, without dec. Maint line of dec on either side of Front neck, rep these 2 rnds until piece meas .5” from pick up. BO all sts in patt.
Remove markers. Weave in all ends. Block.
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